We arrived safely here after our excellent motorbike adventure from Hue.
Almost at once we started eating :)
We found a restaurant on the internet called Baby Mustard, which sounded fabulous and was apparently a short walk from where we are staying. So we set out. A long, hot, time later we were about to give up and either trudge home again or find a cab, when we saw a little stall where some chaps were having a tea. So we asked them. No idea! but then David put the name into his phone, and there was instant recognition! they walked us round the corner and there we were - huge relief.
The restaurant is a family-run place - not unusual here, at all, - but differs in that they run an organic herb and vege garden alongside, and as you place your order, someone pops into the garden with a torch (it was night time!) to gather the ingredients. We had taste sensations like never before, it was a delicious meal.
Next morning, quite early, we were off to the Morning Glory cooking school. Large group (24) most of whom had the class as part of a package tour. So not necessarily foodies. We began with cool drinks, and then a trip to the food market (the big one) to see what we would be cooking. Then a tour of a huge restaurant called The Market Cafe which has everything you could think of and then some, all beautifuly presented so you see what it is you might order.
Then upstairs to the actual class, run by Miss Moon. It was a bit like a Masterchef masterclass except that we did get to cook most of the stuff ourselves. We made, and ate as we went, 4 separate dishes including the famous Banh Xeo crispy pancakes (crispy often pronounced crishpy here :)
About midday we took the last dishes down to the market cafe and ate them. Was great fun. A swim and a rest, and some shirts ordered for David, and we were heading out to eat again - this time at TinTin across the road from our hotel, where the entrance is guarded by two Snowies made from topiary trees:)
Yesterday we were booked on a deluxe class at Red Bridge cooking school. Another early start, and then a trip to the local herb village - all organic, large operation of around 200 families who all have their own plot and grow what they want to sell. Many restaurants come here to get their herbs and veg for the day.
Then to the small local market to buy what we needed to cook with, and back on the minibus to get to Red Bridge. Amazing chef, Fai, who trained at Koto (where we ate in Hanoi) and was a real character as well as being an excellent chef.
We made a lot of things, pho from scratch which involved barbecuing the beef bones, garlic, ginger, onion, before adding them into water with other things to make the stock. We made our own rice noodles, I am NOT kidding. Definitely trying that at home.
We made prawns grilled in banana leaf, pho, barbecued chicken salad - with green mango, green papaya, carrot, chilli, garlic, ginger , and grilled fish for which we made the marinade from scratch including pounding whole turmeric to a paste!
Then we got to sit down and enjoy it with a glass of wine or beer, or whatever. There were 8 of us, all keen cooks and/or consumers, and it was a great day. Lasted until 3, with a trip back to town on the boat. At one point we slowed right down and observed there was no boatman - he had hopped off and got under the boat to clear river weed or something from the propeller! Highly recommend this school, best class we took and hope we can reproduce some of the flavours for friends in Welly.
Today we are taking it easy, and fly to Siem Reap this afternoon. We have, of course, sussed out where to eat tonight!
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