We have had three lovely days in Siem Reap, in a particularly nice hotel, La Niche D
Ángkor which I highly recommend.
Cambodia is entirely different from Vietnam and while comparisons are generally unhelpful, Vietnam has come a lot further than Cambodia in terms of development. Having said that, Cambodia's had less time to recover. There's a lot of overseas investment in aid-related training programmes from hospitality to circus! we experienced both options mentioned and certainly the standard is high. Making a living must be desperately difficult for most people, especially if they have not moved from the country to the city to chase the tourist dollar.
Even in Siem reap, a small city by any standards, it seems really tough. There are no taxis in the city, everything is on a motorbike-drawn tuktuk. Standard fare is $1 for around town, $2 for a bit further. Today we took one from town back to the hotel at 2.30 and we were his first fare for the day.
We hired a driver for our first two days, and he gave some interesting insight into daily life in the area.
Yesterday we visited a temple in the jungle, and the guide told us that she had no education "because of the landmines"and that she is trying to make sure her sons get schooling. American dollars are important as currency, and preferred over the local riel.
We visited Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom - both amazing, as everyone says, and as the pics show. However since we are here in monsoon season, the sunrise and sunset options were not for us - too overcast both days. Spectacular just the same. And so old......................
We went to Sala Bai, a Swiss-organised hotel and cooking school for disadvantaged kids. Very smooth operation, and all the graduates get work within 3 months. Impressive. We also went to Phare Cambodian Circus last night - fantastic show, wonderful local music (modernised) and terrific circus skills shown by all the performers.
The mode of transport (aforementioned motor bike) also carries almost everything else via a small trailer - so we have seen a water buffalo being moved, loads of bamboo, hay etc, bikes on the trailer and best of all a cartload of monks! sadly I did not get these on the camera, but will remember them for ever!
We leave for Singapore tonight, home on Sunday. It's been a great and eye-opening holiday. As we sit sweltering in what is probably about 40 outside (the weather site said temp 37,but will feel like 49!!) and waiting for our airport transfer, it's quite nice to think that we are heading for some cool. May is the hottest month in Cambodia, and if I had worked that out first we would have started here!
Friday, May 10, 2013
Monday, May 6, 2013
Hungry in Hoi An? not on your life!
We arrived safely here after our excellent motorbike adventure from Hue.
Almost at once we started eating :)
We found a restaurant on the internet called Baby Mustard, which sounded fabulous and was apparently a short walk from where we are staying. So we set out. A long, hot, time later we were about to give up and either trudge home again or find a cab, when we saw a little stall where some chaps were having a tea. So we asked them. No idea! but then David put the name into his phone, and there was instant recognition! they walked us round the corner and there we were - huge relief.
The restaurant is a family-run place - not unusual here, at all, - but differs in that they run an organic herb and vege garden alongside, and as you place your order, someone pops into the garden with a torch (it was night time!) to gather the ingredients. We had taste sensations like never before, it was a delicious meal.
Next morning, quite early, we were off to the Morning Glory cooking school. Large group (24) most of whom had the class as part of a package tour. So not necessarily foodies. We began with cool drinks, and then a trip to the food market (the big one) to see what we would be cooking. Then a tour of a huge restaurant called The Market Cafe which has everything you could think of and then some, all beautifuly presented so you see what it is you might order.
Then upstairs to the actual class, run by Miss Moon. It was a bit like a Masterchef masterclass except that we did get to cook most of the stuff ourselves. We made, and ate as we went, 4 separate dishes including the famous Banh Xeo crispy pancakes (crispy often pronounced crishpy here :)
About midday we took the last dishes down to the market cafe and ate them. Was great fun. A swim and a rest, and some shirts ordered for David, and we were heading out to eat again - this time at TinTin across the road from our hotel, where the entrance is guarded by two Snowies made from topiary trees:)
Yesterday we were booked on a deluxe class at Red Bridge cooking school. Another early start, and then a trip to the local herb village - all organic, large operation of around 200 families who all have their own plot and grow what they want to sell. Many restaurants come here to get their herbs and veg for the day.
Then to the small local market to buy what we needed to cook with, and back on the minibus to get to Red Bridge. Amazing chef, Fai, who trained at Koto (where we ate in Hanoi) and was a real character as well as being an excellent chef.
We made a lot of things, pho from scratch which involved barbecuing the beef bones, garlic, ginger, onion, before adding them into water with other things to make the stock. We made our own rice noodles, I am NOT kidding. Definitely trying that at home.
We made prawns grilled in banana leaf, pho, barbecued chicken salad - with green mango, green papaya, carrot, chilli, garlic, ginger , and grilled fish for which we made the marinade from scratch including pounding whole turmeric to a paste!
Then we got to sit down and enjoy it with a glass of wine or beer, or whatever. There were 8 of us, all keen cooks and/or consumers, and it was a great day. Lasted until 3, with a trip back to town on the boat. At one point we slowed right down and observed there was no boatman - he had hopped off and got under the boat to clear river weed or something from the propeller! Highly recommend this school, best class we took and hope we can reproduce some of the flavours for friends in Welly.
Today we are taking it easy, and fly to Siem Reap this afternoon. We have, of course, sussed out where to eat tonight!
We found a restaurant on the internet called Baby Mustard, which sounded fabulous and was apparently a short walk from where we are staying. So we set out. A long, hot, time later we were about to give up and either trudge home again or find a cab, when we saw a little stall where some chaps were having a tea. So we asked them. No idea! but then David put the name into his phone, and there was instant recognition! they walked us round the corner and there we were - huge relief.
The restaurant is a family-run place - not unusual here, at all, - but differs in that they run an organic herb and vege garden alongside, and as you place your order, someone pops into the garden with a torch (it was night time!) to gather the ingredients. We had taste sensations like never before, it was a delicious meal.
Next morning, quite early, we were off to the Morning Glory cooking school. Large group (24) most of whom had the class as part of a package tour. So not necessarily foodies. We began with cool drinks, and then a trip to the food market (the big one) to see what we would be cooking. Then a tour of a huge restaurant called The Market Cafe which has everything you could think of and then some, all beautifuly presented so you see what it is you might order.
Then upstairs to the actual class, run by Miss Moon. It was a bit like a Masterchef masterclass except that we did get to cook most of the stuff ourselves. We made, and ate as we went, 4 separate dishes including the famous Banh Xeo crispy pancakes (crispy often pronounced crishpy here :)
About midday we took the last dishes down to the market cafe and ate them. Was great fun. A swim and a rest, and some shirts ordered for David, and we were heading out to eat again - this time at TinTin across the road from our hotel, where the entrance is guarded by two Snowies made from topiary trees:)
Yesterday we were booked on a deluxe class at Red Bridge cooking school. Another early start, and then a trip to the local herb village - all organic, large operation of around 200 families who all have their own plot and grow what they want to sell. Many restaurants come here to get their herbs and veg for the day.
Then to the small local market to buy what we needed to cook with, and back on the minibus to get to Red Bridge. Amazing chef, Fai, who trained at Koto (where we ate in Hanoi) and was a real character as well as being an excellent chef.
We made a lot of things, pho from scratch which involved barbecuing the beef bones, garlic, ginger, onion, before adding them into water with other things to make the stock. We made our own rice noodles, I am NOT kidding. Definitely trying that at home.
We made prawns grilled in banana leaf, pho, barbecued chicken salad - with green mango, green papaya, carrot, chilli, garlic, ginger , and grilled fish for which we made the marinade from scratch including pounding whole turmeric to a paste!
Then we got to sit down and enjoy it with a glass of wine or beer, or whatever. There were 8 of us, all keen cooks and/or consumers, and it was a great day. Lasted until 3, with a trip back to town on the boat. At one point we slowed right down and observed there was no boatman - he had hopped off and got under the boat to clear river weed or something from the propeller! Highly recommend this school, best class we took and hope we can reproduce some of the flavours for friends in Welly.
Today we are taking it easy, and fly to Siem Reap this afternoon. We have, of course, sussed out where to eat tonight!
Sunday, May 5, 2013
More journeying
Well, yesterday we arrived in Hoi An after coming the long way round from Hue, by motorbike over two days. We booked with a company called Hue Adventures, who are a couple of awesome lads with a good eye for detail and great motorbike technique. We were collected, to the amusement of our hotel staff, early in the morning and all our gear was packed in weatherproof bags and strapped on the bikes. Then we got on, and away we went, out f Hue heading for the Ho Chi Minh trail. But to get there we had to navigate roadworks, but not as we know them, Jim! Calf-high orange mud, - thank goodness for the blue wet weather gear and wellies provided by Top and Tim. 10 ks of that, took about an hour, but that was after our first stop which was at a roadside stand where coffee was served and also jackfruit off the tree as we sat there. Then a short walk to a fabulous waterfall pool where we had a swim. Back on the bikes, the mud mentioned earlier, then lunch at a cafe in a village -totally delicious food. Then more riding - frequent stops to " stretch our bums" and a visit to an ethnic minority village. This group worships Ho Chi Minh, and like other minority groups in Vietnam receives free education and medical assistance , which is not the case for the rest of Vietnamese people.pay for everything - not what one expects in a communist state ........
One of the many things which was amusing is the concept f free range livestock - cows, buffalo, dogs all just plonk in the middle of the road if so inclined, and do not move for traffic. Careful negotiating round calves, piglets, chooks!
The jungle looks not unlike NZ bush, when you look at the mountains. Very green and way more lush but not unfamiliar. That was a surprise. We stayed overnight in a very nice guest house in Prao up in the mountains. The owners made a delicious meal, and we pottered about exploring a bit before dinner.
Next morning off by 8 to drive the rest of the distance to Hue, with some more exploring. We have learned a Great deal about life in Vietnam out of the cities thanks to our drivers. We went over the Hai ,Van pass, spectacular views, winding roads. Before coming into danang we drove up to another lookout point whe both French and us troops had built bunkers, and explored there a bit, lunch in danang at a workers cafe -again delicious food and the boys made sure we tried everything. Then to Marble Mountain, where we wimped out and took the lift - well, it was HOT HOT HOT and also mid afternoon! But a beautiful spot. Thn to Hoi An.
We were really impressed with the boys - totally prepared for anything, down to tiger balm patches for a stiff neck! So charming knowledgeable and helpful and above my apprehension vanished the minute we talked to them before the trip. Recommend them highly to anyone wanting an adventure.
One of the many things which was amusing is the concept f free range livestock - cows, buffalo, dogs all just plonk in the middle of the road if so inclined, and do not move for traffic. Careful negotiating round calves, piglets, chooks!
The jungle looks not unlike NZ bush, when you look at the mountains. Very green and way more lush but not unfamiliar. That was a surprise. We stayed overnight in a very nice guest house in Prao up in the mountains. The owners made a delicious meal, and we pottered about exploring a bit before dinner.
Next morning off by 8 to drive the rest of the distance to Hue, with some more exploring. We have learned a Great deal about life in Vietnam out of the cities thanks to our drivers. We went over the Hai ,Van pass, spectacular views, winding roads. Before coming into danang we drove up to another lookout point whe both French and us troops had built bunkers, and explored there a bit, lunch in danang at a workers cafe -again delicious food and the boys made sure we tried everything. Then to Marble Mountain, where we wimped out and took the lift - well, it was HOT HOT HOT and also mid afternoon! But a beautiful spot. Thn to Hoi An.
We were really impressed with the boys - totally prepared for anything, down to tiger balm patches for a stiff neck! So charming knowledgeable and helpful and above my apprehension vanished the minute we talked to them before the trip. Recommend them highly to anyone wanting an adventure.
Tuesday, April 30, 2013
Thoughts from abroad
On the way back from halong bay, it became apparent that the normal system of driving in lanes is conspicuously absent - at one point all the traffic was heading south across all lanes, but then suddenly there was oncoming traffic, so some dance steps were taken to avoid all of that! Freaky if you are near the front of the bus :)
There are remarkably no accidents, or at least none that we saw. Drivers are very patient.
Today we arrived safely in Hue, after a particularly unpleasant 14hour train trip. If you are travelling in Vietnam from Hanoi south, Do not, repeat DO NOT TAKE THE TRAIN!!!!!!!!
I,ll spare you the details, but the tannoy roared into Life at 6.00 am, the "facilities" were non-existent, and there were livestock in evidence :(
However Hue is absolutely beautiful, the hotel is lovely, the staff extremely considerate and helpful, and there is a festival going on along the river. We had a fabulous meal on the riverbank - grilled duck, a fig and other things salad, and grilled prawns and it was all delicious and cost about $10!
S far, so much better!!!
It's very warm -so much so that the locals are also finding it so - A midday siesta culture.
hue is so peaceful after Hanoi but the festival was full on as the temperature had dropped and everyone and their motorbike was in attendance -gawking as much as the visitors.
There are remarkably no accidents, or at least none that we saw. Drivers are very patient.
Today we arrived safely in Hue, after a particularly unpleasant 14hour train trip. If you are travelling in Vietnam from Hanoi south, Do not, repeat DO NOT TAKE THE TRAIN!!!!!!!!
I,ll spare you the details, but the tannoy roared into Life at 6.00 am, the "facilities" were non-existent, and there were livestock in evidence :(
However Hue is absolutely beautiful, the hotel is lovely, the staff extremely considerate and helpful, and there is a festival going on along the river. We had a fabulous meal on the riverbank - grilled duck, a fig and other things salad, and grilled prawns and it was all delicious and cost about $10!
S far, so much better!!!
It's very warm -so much so that the locals are also finding it so - A midday siesta culture.
hue is so peaceful after Hanoi but the festival was full on as the temperature had dropped and everyone and their motorbike was in attendance -gawking as much as the visitors.
Monday, April 29, 2013
and we're still in Hanoi!!!!
Yesterday's trip to halong bay started out early - bus full of Malaysian tourists and us. Little common language. Driver spoke no english at all. 4.5 hours later we arrived in Halong Bay, to find that there was a hurricane warning and the overnight trips were all cancelled. So, after a lengthy wait, we were divided into various other combinations of ethnicities, and got on little open tender boats to get to the junk we were booked on. On board, lunch was served (pretty nice too) and then we cruised around the inner part of Halong bay, past a floating village with its own school, and to a huge limestone cave which was discovered onlyl in 1993. We got off the junk by the same means, queued for the cave tour, did that, waited for the tender, back on the junk, and back on to a bus. this time with French, Swiss and US kids (well, by our standards) for the long drive back to Hanoi.
Interesting conversations on the way back, some of the US crew worked for various ngos or volunteer outfits in hanoi and elsewhere, so we laerned a lot about those operations in this region.
Finally back to hotel about 10, for a very very late dinner.
Today, I was overcome by something and stayed in all day. Tonight we get the train to Hue.
Saturday, April 27, 2013
Last day in Hanoi
Leaving early tomorrow, so this morning we went to another excellent museum, the Vietnamese womens museum. Fascinating, well done and poignant a lot of the time. Interesting how many customs have similarities in ones own culture and/or religion - not that it's surprising, but it is quite striking all the same.
The women are remarkable when you look at their history. From way back in the 10th century there have been outstanding women making the place and role of women better. Even in a male dominated society.
The women who work selling stuff in the street in Hanoi, for example, often live away from their families and go home maybe twic a month, if they are lucky they might make $20 a week. That has to pay for kids education etc so the children will be better off then their parents.
Later, after lunch at the same awesome place we went yesterday, we walked around the lake and saw many bridal couples having their photos. I think it is the same as in Thailand, where you go and do the photos long before the actual wedding day. So I have some lovely bridal shots a,one my collection of pics. Just can't upload them as I did not brin a laptop, so you will just have to wait!
Tonight we are going to the national theatre and then to the jazz club.
While I remember, anyone keen on music go to YouTube and find kick off band on Hanoi and listen to their amazing violinist thuong beo.
The women are remarkable when you look at their history. From way back in the 10th century there have been outstanding women making the place and role of women better. Even in a male dominated society.
The women who work selling stuff in the street in Hanoi, for example, often live away from their families and go home maybe twic a month, if they are lucky they might make $20 a week. That has to pay for kids education etc so the children will be better off then their parents.
Later, after lunch at the same awesome place we went yesterday, we walked around the lake and saw many bridal couples having their photos. I think it is the same as in Thailand, where you go and do the photos long before the actual wedding day. So I have some lovely bridal shots a,one my collection of pics. Just can't upload them as I did not brin a laptop, so you will just have to wait!
Tonight we are going to the national theatre and then to the jazz club.
While I remember, anyone keen on music go to YouTube and find kick off band on Hanoi and listen to their amazing violinist thuong beo.
Friday, April 26, 2013
Hanoi random thoughts
It's an interesting place to visit. Most people apparently only stay here for a couple of days. We have been here a week and only scratched the surface really. Thís morning we went to the Fine Arts museum - it was almost deserted which seemed a great pity, as its an amazing museum. Gives a really good overview of the history òf the country through the development of their art. Way mỏre complex thân anything we have seen in other Asian countries.
Then we walked back to the hotel by plotting the route on the phone. Thanks, android!
Yesterday coming back from the Perfume pagoda it ứa fascinating to see the rice paddies and market gardens all being worked in right up till dark - everything very very tidy and well cared-for. Lót of water buffalo, and beautiful brown cows, and ducks. Millions and millions of white ducks. They seem to be well catered for (until they become a catering item themselves) and a lot of places had duck-houses so when they get sick of being ducks in a pond they can go sleep on land for the night,.
We had lunch at a remarkable place which must seat about 1000 yet did not feel like a food court. Had fresh beef spring rolls, fried spring rolls,and green papaya and quail salad. All delicious. Total bill, $4. Crazy.
Tonight, all things being equal, we plan to head to the other side of town to find a recommended restaurant and the jazz club. Fortunately they are not far apart,on the same street in fact.
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